Respect the Elephant

Embedded within the Tropical Forest at Odzalla are large swaths of savanna and patches of wet meadow. This creates an interesting mix of habitats and species. You will see numerous bird species, innumerable termite mounds, forest buffalo, and if your lucky spotted hyena and forest elephants. Two of the lodges I stayed at were located in these habitat types, Mboko in the savanna and Lango overlooking Lango Bai. Elephants were poached at Lango Bai up until about 20 years ago. Elephants have long memories. Where as in other Bais, the elephants are often present during the day. The Elephants at Lango only emerge at sunset.

We wait anxiously in hopes of getting a look at them before the day light fades. One evening, no luck, but we know they came as their calls and movements awaken us at 1:32 am. Forest elephants are not quiet when they congregate. The second evening a small group emerges tentatively from the forest just before sunset, granting us a brief glimpse and then retreating. After dark, the night is punctuated by trumpeting and low rumbling growls. The growls sound like a massive forest cat. We watch the elephants through night vision binoculars then skulk down a boardwalk and sit in the dark within 25 yards of the massive creatures. There are probably two dozen or more. For a moment, we feel as if we are part of the herd.

Forest elephants are massive animals and can be dangerous if they are frightened and you’re standing in their flight path. The guides and trackers are infinitely respectful of them. Usually, the elephants smell you and vanish into the forest, but one day we were walking on the Bai and holed up for a while on a small rise covered with trees. A large male came from down wind and was within about 50 yards of us when it caught our sent. It bolted through the river past our island and through an unfortunate heard of forest buffalo lounging between the elephant and its forest refuge. With tail curled up, ears out, and frantic trumpeting, it moved through the landscape like a startled freight train. After seeing this, you understand the guides’ respect.

Road to Mboko

Landscape at Mboko

This is what happens when termites take shrooms.

Hyena on road between Mboko and Lango

Bee Eater on road between Mboko and Lango

Crested Eagle on road between Mboko and Lango

Black and White Colobus Monkey along river at Mbobko

Forest Buffalo along river at Mbobko

Forest Elephant peering out of grasses along river at Mboko

Agama Lizard says, "Send more weed!"

"Did some one say weed?"

Lodge at Lango Bai

Sure, it's safe to walk around the lodge at night. The gates keep the Hyenas out. This gate? Really?

Dragon Fly at Lango Bai

King Fisher at Lango Bai

There were a few green pigeons at Lango Bai

Shrooms? Where are those termites?

The forest elephant that approached us at the island in the Bai