A Boiling Cauldron

Madagascar is a boiling cauldron of evolution (and other things, as well). It is the world’s fourth largest island. It reached its present location roughly 80 million years ago and has been separated from the other Gondwanaland continents for nearly twice that long. It includes a diverse array of ecosystems, including spiny forests in the south, rainforests in the east, and seasonal dry forests in the west. Madagascar has a staggering array of species not seen anywhere else in the world. 80% of its species are endemic.

Each of the groups of native terrestrial mammals (lemurs, carnivores, tenrecs, and rodents) seems to have radiated from a single colonization event. For lemurs, this probably occurred about 60 million years ago and has given rise to at least 111 species. New species, mostly of mouse lemurs, are still being discovered. Many of the newly discovered species are cryptic species. They look very similar, but genetic analysis tells us that they are reproductively isolated from one another. Each species of Mouse Lemur has a different mating call that contributes to reproductive isolation.

I love watching the lemurs. I think I’ve seen at least 31 different species. My favorite are the Bamboo Lemurs. They have very expressive faces. I think it is their short snouts relative to other lemurs that make them seem more human.

But, Madagascar is much more than lemurs. It was thought to be the center of origin for chameleons, but recent evidence indicates they may have rafted to Madagascar from Africa. They probably arrived about 65 million years ago and had a good thing going following the extinction of the dinosaurs until those pesky mammals arrived. There are more than 100 species of chameleons on the island, which is probably about 50% of the world’s chameleon species. One of the chameleon species is the smallest lizard on earth. You know where the second smallest lizard on earth lives? Madagascar!

But chameleons aren’t the only lizard group. Geckos are very diverse, as well, with the stunningly green day geckos and the bizarre leaf-tailed geckos. The Mossy Leaf-tailed Gecko is one of the best masters of camouflage to be found anywhere. It’s probably looking at you right now, and you don’t even know it. Can you feel yourself being watched? Look around. See it? Of course not, it is a master of disguise. That’s how you know when they are there, when you can’t see them.

I’ve never seen the Tenrecs, but I’m sure I’d like them. Some look like hedge hogs, others like shrews. They like the rainy season. I do not.

Speaking of rain, have I mentioned the frogs? Wow! And the insects? A Rhinoceros Beetle joined me for dinner the other night.

I was going to recommend that everyone visit Madagascar, that you get on the phone and book your tickets right now, but on deeper reflection, Madagascar is not for everyone. It can be very hot and often humid, every trail seems to go uphill both ways, and it may be difficult to communicate if you don’t know French or Malagasy. All flights go through the capitol and seem to leave early in the morning. You have to spend a night in the capitol anytime you want to see another part of the country, but you don’t get to enjoy your hotel because you have to be up at 3 AM to get to the airport to catch your next flight.

It’s not recommended to go out of your hotel in the capitol because of the crime. They sent a security guard with me when I went to eat at a restaurant 5 minutes walk from my hotel.

Apparently, there are a number of schemes for stealing things from your car when you are stuck in traffic. If it’s any consolation, you are more likely to be held up with a knife than a gun. It’s the cattle poachers that usually have the guns.

If you aren’t worried about the traffic jams in the capital, you could drive instead of flying, but the roads are extremely poor. It takes a very long time to get anywhere. If you do travel by road, bring several extra tires and a personal mechanic. We had four flats in six days and in a single 4 hour drive, we saw 8 cars broken down.

If you do decide to drive, here are a few tips I’ve picked up from watching my driver. (1) Drive on any part of the road you want if it helps you avoid the potholes, and play chicken with the cars coming at you. You’ll usually both return to your respective parts of the road in time to avoid a head on collision. (2) Drive as fast as you can when there is not a pothole in the way. Do not slow down or change directions for anyone or anything. (3) Make an exception to rule 2 for cattle. (4) Feel free to get as close to any living thing as possible, regardless of the hateful stares they give you. They’ll get out of your way, usually. (5) If you hit something, don’t stop to try to make reparation, everyone will claim that whatever you hit was theirs, or their cousin’s, or their uncle’s, or their nephew’s, and you’ll have to pay every person in the village for the chicken, which was running wild on the road with no identification tags and looked exactly like every other chicken that you didn’t hit. (6) Make an exception to rule 5 for cattle.

Despite the challenges you may face in Madagascar, I’ll stick with my original recommendation and say you should come here. Where else are you going to see wild lemurs, six endemic baobab tree species, so many endemic lizard species, and get to practice your offensive driving skills. Nowhere! Go book your ticket now.

Oh, and one last piece of advice, bring lots of money for tips. To see the wildlife (think Mossy Leaf-tailed Gecko), you’ll need a good guide and a good driver (see above). When you get to a specific location, your guide will need a local guide, and when you get to a specific location within your specific location, your guide’s guide will need a guide. If you get 4 flats, your driver may need a driver. You should tip them all.

Or, you could stay in the comfort of your home and see the wildlife in the pictures below.

There are a lot of beautiful frog species in Madagascar.

Did I mention there are a lot of beautiful frog species in Madagascar?

Enough said?

I offer for your enjoyment the smaller of the two pill millipedes. In case you didn't notice, it's green!

This is a giant among Brookesia sp. at about 3 inches long.

Satanic Leaf-tailed Gecko. I think he got a bad rap on the name. I'm going with the Adorable Leaf-tailed Gecko.

Can you find the Mossy Leaf-tailed Gecko? Did you look behind you?

Obligate spider photo for my sister. Not sure we've had one since the Congo.

I really like this photo :-) Hope you do, too.

All that practice taking praying mantis photos in my back yard while I was quarantined with Covid pays off, again. Yes!

Day Geckos are great subjects. They're usually pretty chill and they like to look right at you.

Chameleons not so much. They like to wiggle their eyes around a lot. It's really hard to get them to look at you with both eyes at the same time.

I was much more interested in this than my guides. They really like to show you birds that are gone by the time you figure out where they were.

Long-necked Giraffe Weevil. Yes, there are, also, Short-necked Giraffe Weevils.

Oh yeah. This should be good. I remember the blood and carnage last time.

It's gonna be a train wreck, but I can't turn my eyes away.

I got this! It won't be like last time. Bones heal, bones heal, bones heal, just remember bones heal...

Ha! Stuck it! I knew I had it all along.

What? He made it. And I even had this great front row seat. Last time was way more interesting!

Hmmm, if he can make it ...